First things first, look over the ECU case, both top and bottom lids, and the spot where the harness plugs into the ECU. If there is a good amount of corrosion, watermarks, rust, a couple broken screws, a twisted case or any broken tabs, that might give you an idea of what the internals are going to look like. Check the pins to see if there is any flakey blueish green colored material on it as that is an indication that water might of built up somewhere on the harness plugs/ECU at some point.





Once you have the lids open, look for any major areas of rust or corrosion mainly around the harness plugs but not limited to them. You can sometimes find it on the legs of the components. Look for rust as well because if there is corrosion then there usually is rust somewhere.These are all red flags and we will NOT purchase these ECUs.



Another thing to look for are leaking capacitors. It maybe a little hard or it might just scream out at you if a cap is leaking. What you want to look for is discolored board, maybe some black discharge on the pins themselves, or just a complete hole in the board. To spot a cap that just started to leak and eat the board, you have to look closely. The board will be slightly discolored and appear to be a little yellow/brown and the silk writing on the board might look a little distorted. If it has been sitting for a while or the cap leaked a good amount, the ECU board itself will appear a darker green or black around the solder joints. You can move most caps around CAREFULLY to give yourself a better look.




After you've looked the ECU over and all appears well, hook it up to the engine sim. Plug all the harness plugs in FIRST and attach the SIM board. THEN plug the entire assembly into the power supply. Three lights on the engine sim will illuminate, the FPR light, the IACV light and the MIL light. After a couple seconds the FPR light will go out and the MIL light will dim a little bit. The IACV light will stay dimly light the entire time. At this pint if no solid light check engine lights appear you can go ahead and turn the RPMS up and the TPS knob up at the same rate and watch all FOUR injector lights light up meaning they are all "firing". The FPR light should be illuminated as well as the IACV light and most likely if you are checking a stock ECU the MIL light will be fully illuminated as well. The ICM light will be blinking at a fast rate as well.  If there are any check engine lights, you can move the toggle switch over thats on the top of the engine sim board and check the codes. If the ECU is an automatic (last two numbers on the ECU will most likely be: A50, A51, A52, C50, C51, C52, etc etc) you will throw a check engine light of 19. Thats one long blink and 9 short blinks. You also most likely will throw a heater O2 code. Code 41. Four long blinks and one short blink.These codes are all normal for  a stock ECU. If the ECU throws any other code.such as code 9 or just stays solid, we can not purchase the ECU. If just the MIL light illuminates, then we WILL NOT buy that ECU either.


Currently we pay (12/19/17)

$50 for NON-VTEC ECUs (P75, P05,P06, OBD1 PR4)

$60 for VTEC ECUs (P28 P61 P72)

K-Series ECU current Pricing

5 Speed PND/PNF - $100

6 Speed PRB - $150

Please include a note as to how you would like to be paid (Company Check or PayPal) as well as any contact information in case there is a problem with any of the ECUs

Shipping Your ECU to us, please use one of these two addresses depending on shipping method used:




Xenocron Tuning Solutions
301 Route 17 S, Unit #1
Hillburn, NY 10931

USPS (Postal Service)

XENOCRON Tuning Solutions, INC.
PO Box 11
Hillburn, NY 10931